Medium Size Cams in Your Rack

The medium size cams in your rack are some of the most versatile and important pieces of kit you'll have. Generally rated at 10-14kn, they're capable of holding significant falls and making bomber anchors when placed correctly in high quality stone. They also provide much more grip than a single nut in the same placement, which makes them great for those awkward cracks that would otherwise be un-cammable.

The Black Diamond Z4s, and Metolius Ultralight Mastercams, are the two most popular choices for this group. Both offer good range and a lightweight design. The Z4 lobes have a softer alloy, which gives them a bit more bite. They also have a serrated pattern on the lobes that helps with friction when climbing rough or crumbly rocks.

Both the Z4s and the Zero Friends have extendable slings which save a few quickdraws on your rack. However, they're a little fiddly to use and take up a fair amount of racking space on your harness. They're also a bit 'walky' with long stems, which can be problematic on some very chossy or shallow cracks.

The Totem Cams are an interesting option for those wanting a set of lighter, narrower headed cams. The green and purple Totem Cams have narrower head widths that allow them to fit more placements in the same slot than a standard Blue Dragon/Camalot.